BESKRIVELSE
Dalvas ikoniske Golden White 1963. Anmelderrost og i en liga for sig! Dybde, kompleksitet, sødme, modenhed, intensitet… Vi kunne blive ved – det her skal prøves mindst én gang i livet. Måske verdens bedste hvide portvin? Læs, hvad Robert Parker, Decanter og Jancis Robinson skriver og bedøm selv.
Dalva er et gammelt traditionsbundet portvinshus grundlagt i 1862. Indtil 1920’erne, da brasilianske C. Da. Silva opkøbte huset gennem sin kones familie, havde huset gået under andet navn og havde primært solgt deres portvine i Portugal. Men med Da Silva i front begyndte huset at eksportere til både Brasilien og Nordamerika, og sidenhen også Asien og Europa. Produktionen af portvine hos Dalva tog i starten af 1970’erne en kovending. Hidtil havde man opkøbt ulagret vin fra andre producenter, som man lagrede og flaskede. Men i løbet af det næste årti begyndte Dalva at dyrke egne druer, byggede vineri direkte på Quintaen og satsede i det hele taget benhårdt på at hæve kvaliteten. Dette gav i særdeleshed pote allerede i 1978, hvor huset producerede sin første “hjemmedyrkede” vintage port. Dalva er nu et højt respekteret portvinshus, hvor man især har specialiseret sig i tawnies og hvide ports fra det sidste århundrede.
SMAGS NOTER:
ANIS, CHOKOLADE, FERSKEN, HONNING, KARAMEL
GOD TIL:
DESSERT, FRUGTIGE DESSERTER, JORDBÆR, MILDE OSTE
DUFTE:
ABRIKOS, APPELSINSKAL, FERSKEN, FIGNER, HONNING
95 points Decanter
‘The first duty of Port is to be red…’ except for this unique white colheita! Citrus and honey on the nose then toasted almond flavours. Sweet and peppery, but not overtly so, offset by acidity which extends onto the finish, giving an overall impression of freshness despite its complexity and age.”
95 points Robert Parker
The 1963 Golden White Port (Dalva) is mostly a blend of Malvasia Fina, Viosinho and Rabigato, coming in at 130 grams per liter of residual sugar. This has been seen before, but this is the new 2017 bottling now in the USA. Not much has changed. This takes the gorgeous 1971 and adds some power, viscosity and intensity to it. It shows a little more complexity and it is burlier. It is often very much like a tawny in flavor. Taste this “white Colheita” blind and you may wonder if it is indeed white. It is still fresh and lifted, if not quite as bright and as youthful as the 1971. Overall, though, the added complexity seals the deal here, while the 1971 gets the nod for brightness. You slowly realize this does everything brilliantly. Which you prefer will be a matter of taste. I tend to emphasize complexity and my nod is to this, but I won’t be surprised if some argue with me. The 1971 is pretty brilliant, too, if a bit more understated. This is another impressive White Port this issue from C. da Silva.
17 points Jancis Robinson
Very old sweet wine. Golden White = brand name. Still on the market. Declared once a decade. Slightly browner gold. RS 119 g/l. A little nutty but still has that lovely bitter orange note. Great power but also great freshness and youth. Dried apricot intensity. Still so much fruit. Must be racked once a year. Good casks (600 litres). (JH)
